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| DIARY | Click here for previous entries 20 July, Montbard, Burgundy Canal The Burgundy Canal adventure began from Migennes and will end at Venary-Les Laumes near the site of the famous battle fought by the Gauls against Julius Caesar in 52 BC. The excavated Roman ruins there are a landmark in history and also mark the beginning of the staircase locks leading to the Pouilly tunnel, a no-go area for Anja. So after visiting the area we will return to Migennes and make our way across to the Loire area.Canal barging is certainly a pleasant way to see the countryside. We’ve seen little traffic so far and quite a few have been marked with a “G’day mate” as other Aussies or Kiwis slowly motor past us in the narrow canals. The Dutch monster leaving the lock in the photo took off at speed and tried to suck us into it’s hull side. The hire boat behind us wasn’t tied up as we were and had a rough time. The canals are just 2m deep and a barge that size pushes the water in front, dropping the level substantially behind hence causing first a forward force then a vaccuum to the concern of other traffic like us.Our days are spent doing perhaps 10 or 20 km and up to 10 locks before stopping around 6. We then have 3.5 hours of daylight to ride to the nearest village, prepare the BBQ and have a few local wines. First thing in the morning, around 0830! we cycle to the nearest Boulangerie for our fresh baguettes and croissants for the day - Oh it’s tough! All Aboard ANJA on the Nivernais Canal Alison and the barge owners Dave and Penny aboard ANJA waiting for a lock to open. Well, actually it's me waiting for the water to fill the lock before I wind the handle!24 June 2010 Paris, France While illywhacker lies patiently at her berth in Kettering, her owner is on the other side of the world, about to experience a whole new cruising lifestyle. Alison and I are about to spend 3 months aboard a canal barge in France. If you wish to follow this journey, please click on the link above to be transferred to my blogsite. A Few Days in Paris After a 22 hour flight from Sydney via Singapore, we needed a few days rest before heading aboard our new floating home for 3 months. We were most fortunate to be invited to stay in Sylvie's apartment in the Latin Quarter. Alison took this shot from the window. Paris on a sunny day - beautiful.Determined to beat the dreaded jetlag, we took to the streets. We'd both been here previously but this time we particularly enjoyed wandering about, just to soak up the ambience.Today we struggled with our heavy bags up and down the Metro steps in morning peak hour to board our scheduled train to Auxerre where we were to meet David and Penny aboard their new barge. When we arrived it was most disappointing to learn that all trains had been cancelled due to a strike. We also learned from David that even the lock keepers were on strike so for us it was to be another day touring the sights of Paris - tough luck!!5 June 2010 Quarries Bay, Bruny Island, Tasmania It might be winter but there is immense satisfaction in an anchorage that is all ours to share only with the wildlife. There is no other boat to be seen and yet we're just 2 hours sailing from illywhacker's Kettering homebase marina.. The Tasmanian waters of the D'Entrecasteaux Channel and beyond form marvellous cruising grounds which will take quite a while to fully explore. Illywhacker is once again a cruising yacht. With me is Alison, an experienced sailor and an old friend from Sydney. It's good to have someone aboard who can take this 20 tonne yacht into a berth with confidence and who knows how to throw a line. Together we have planned an altogether different waterborne adventure too. In a few weeks we will fly to France and live aboard a friend's canal barge for 3 months. It's something I've always wanted to do, especially when the weather at sea made me ask "what are am I doing out here?" Hopefully the swell in the French canals will always be manageable. I'll do me best to keep this diary updated as we go along.25 March 2010 Kettering, Tasmania There first rays of sun cast a red glow over the mirrored waters of the harbour, reflecting off the many yachts at anchor before coming to rest on illywhacker, tied to the outer dock where she arrived last night. This is the first day of a new life for me. It is a beautiful beginning ... and it is Lyndall's birthday. On my arrival here after a fast passage from Sydney I have been greeted by many friends and fellow yachties, all part of what seems to be a wonderful community. At last I can slow down, work on illywhacker, enjoy the magnificent environment of Tasmania, perhaps write another book and generally come to understand myself as an individual. 27 February 2010, Lemon Tree Passage I'm exhausted! After 5 weeks with my head in the engine room, I emerged yesterday for a test run of illywhacker's new Yanmar in the waters of Port Stephens. Never has she moved so quickly under motor - and looked so clean afterwards! So now it is the big cleanup, get the boat ready for sea again and have a short break before heading to Sydney then further south to Tasmania. This has been a successful and very pleasant port. I've made so many good friends that if I stay any longer, I'd never leave. It has always been Lyndall who reminded me how short life is and how much of this wide world we haven't seen as a means of dragging me onwards. Now it's up to me - another step forward.21 January 2010, Lemon Tree Passage I'm back aboard after a very pleasant stay in Tasmania. So pleasant in fact that the plan now is to sail there once the new engine is installed. Yesterday I was able to lift the old one off it's mountings and into the cockpit, leaving a big dirty hole below. I'll need to replace the exhaust system, mount a bracket for the refrigeration compressor, wire in the new engine and fit the hot water system among many other jobs best done without an engine in the way. However, life is good here with many locals offering help so I'm looking forward to the weeks ahead.23 December 2009 Hobart Tasmania I'm in Tasmania researching potential crew for illywhacker at the same time as enjoying the company of old sailing friends. The waterways around this most southern state of Australia have some similarity to Canada and even Alaska. If I were to cruise these waters in the future, the heaters aboard and efficient insulation would most certainly be appreciated. There are many quiet anchorages here with good fishing, challenging walks and plentiful bird and animal life. After my last year of despair and subsequent gradual rebuild, perhaps a year of local cruising would be a good tonic. To all those friends and readers of this diary, I thank you for allowing me a diversion from the true purpose of this, a cruising yacht site. While illywhacker and her travels have been my life, none would have been possible without Lyndall, my companion all the way. Losing her has meant a huge adjustment which has been reflected in these paragraphs and I thank all those who have written with kind emails of support. May you all have a happy holiday season and an adventurous 2010.6 December 2009 Lemon Tree Passage The injector pump was repaired in 3 days at Airlie Beach and we once again took to sea for what turned out to be 4 great days of sailing under NE winds over the aft quarter. The motor was barely needed which was fortuitous since when it was called upon the alternator threw it's drive pulley and the engine fresh water pump which shares the belt also stopped, subsequently overheating the engine. Another tow saw us in Tin Can Bay where we managed to obtain a new alternator after 2 days. A frustrating further 3 days of motorsailing with much of my time spent in the engine room saw us in this lovely marina in Port Stephens. I am now 1000nm from Townsville and just 80nm from illywhacker's home port calling in initially to wait out 5 days of strong southerlies. I must be settling back in to cruising as I rather like this place and have decided to stay for a few months. It is an ideal location to fit a new engine and as Lyndall always wanted a larger Yanmar I once again find myself carrying out my Captains orders. Over the xmas period though things quieten down even more around here so I will travel to Tasmania to check out my ultimate destination and catch up with a few friends. |
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