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| DIARY | Click here for previous entries Kettering, Tasmania Our three months in Holland were wonderful but it is greatto be home. Illywhacker was patiently waiting for me and came alive with aflick of a few switches. The engine started at first turn, refrigerationhummed, water pump came up to pressure, lights glowed in a warm welcome and theheating reminded me that Spring was a bit late. We've had some beautiful dayslately though with that clear sky you only see in cold climates, reminding meof Cordova, Alaska. It's time once again to haul out for a bottom paint and tofit new engine mounts and a new shaft seal so November will be a busy timebefore illywhacker ventures out for Summer cruises in Tasmanian waters - can'twait! Edam, Holland aboard our canal barge Burra Billa In the last week, Burrabilla has been covered daily in autumn leaves, the trees beside the canals are now almost bare. The temperatures are dropping and the rain and grey skies continue. Not exactly the conditions you would choose for a canal barge holiday in Europe! Neverthless, like the locals we don our wetgear, hop on our bikes and wander the cobbled streets of Holland's many ancient cities. We've splashed through Gorichem, Montfoort, Gouda, Leiden, Haarlem, Alkmaar, Purmerend and many places in between. Today we are in lovely Edam, a bit late for the cheese festivals but nevertheless, a charming city. Two things stand out for me in Holland. The first is how well the place seems to run. Not only does the country's infrastructure work exceedingly efficiently, but the beautifully maintained houses, farms and factories and the friendly and considerate attitudes of the locals in what is a very crowded country, all point to a strong social conscience. Behind the scenes there is no doubt much to dislike of course but to an outsider, it could be (apart from the weather), a good place to live and I believe the country is well-equipped for the future. I am also delighted to be constantly taken back to our time in Huis Ten Bosch, the Dutch village/theme park in Japan where we stayed for 2 years. Huis Ten Bosch re-created the “best” of Holland in a precise display of famous buildings, windmills, gardens and a million Van Gogh replicas. The Gouda Town Hall photo below could have been taken in either country. Town hall at GoudaDutch architecture behind a traditional bridge, 16th century?Aboard Burra Billa in Utrecht, Holland Burra Billa beside the River Vecht at MaarssenUtrecht is one of Hollands first towns, almost 2000 years old but is still fresh and well kept. Our approach was stunning. The River Vecht runs through a semi commercial/residential area where it becomes a canal which led to our first lock. A 1 metre lift, it was a very sedate affair compared with last years experiences in France. From then on it was pure Holland. The canal is set several meters below the road and the lower level is lined with restaurants, full with holidaymakers enjoying the rare sunshine as they sat under umbrellas at tables set on the cobblestones beside the water's edge. The canal twisted and turned and, as we motored beneath bridge after bridge, our seamanship was open to fearsome scrutiny from the crowds just meters away. We were so close we could have nicked one of their delicious Dutch pastries!Following the crowd of boats through UtrechtOne of many stately homes along the river's edgeWe have bought museum passes and have seen five or so already. Each has been well worth a visit and there are many more to see. We've been using our bikes too, joining the throng of cyclists - it's the most popular way to get around.Weesp, Holland I'm in another world! Airline travel seems to highlight the difference between my life in a small yachting community in Tasmania and as it is now, living aboard a canal barge, currently in the town of Weesp in Holland. It is holiday time in Europe and the waterways are packed with sailors guiding craft of all shapes and sizes from sleek sculls through traditional Dutch barges to 760 ton commercial barges gliding just metres past our saloon window. Alison and I have just farewelled the 2nd partner (there are 3 of us) in our newly acquired canal cruiser named "Burra Billa" (aboriginal for distant river). It's a time to learn about the boat, plan a route through Holland for the next 3 months and do some walking and bike riding trips around this very pretty area. Our options are to take the boat to as many places as we can or to use the excellent train network to visit this relatively small country while we leave BB in marinas close to Amsterdam. I've spoken to 3 skippers on nearby boats and already have 3 different suggestions - all adamant in that enthusiastic Dutch way.In the few days we have been here we have enjoyed a dinner at a canalside restaurant and have climbed the ramparts and towers of Muiden Castle, a mere 700 years old. There is so much to see and do, it all adds up to a really exciting and different holiday ahead of us.Picture perfect Muiden castle - MuiderslotA tight squeeze through the opening bridge for this 760 tonnerKettering Snow on the mountains, strong, cold SW winds and long underwear. That's Tasmania in the Winter! There are occasional fine days though and these are great for short cruises "down the Channel" to protected anchorages like Port Huon and the cosy pub at Kermandie with it's roaring fireplace and convivial company. That's where I was recently but our thoughts are focussed on our upcoming trip to Europe. In a few days time, we'll fly to the US west coast for 2 weeks then across the top to Holland where we will pick up our canal barge to live aboard for 3 months. No lumpy seas or hopefully any snow there, so we are looking forward to the change. With some luck I should be able to post a few pictures of life aboard a different craft while illywhacker stays curled up in her berth at Kettering.From the website, click on the link in the diary to see the blog and a photo of "Burra Billa".2 March 2011 Port Davey, Tasmania Bleak, rainy, cold yet magnificent, that's Tasmania's SW coast - in Summer! The winds here at 43S howl in unencumbered across vast distances of the Southern Ocean. Illywhacker is tied in a web of lines to stunted trees ashore with 2 other boats in a small cove off the Bathurst Channel. We need to wait 2 more days for a projected lull before we can explore this fascinating place. The surface waters are such a dark tannin that no light reaches down more than a metre or so and the sealife there is more like that found at much deeper ocean depths. It is a unique and beautiful waterway just a few days sail (plus some judicious picking of the right weather) away from illywhacker's berth in Kettering. Very special cruising.31 December 2010 Kettering, Tasmania 2010 was a good year for me, something I'd never have thought possible at the beginning. The sail from Townsville to Kettering was a great move - from the moment I arrived, friends new and old took care of me. Illywhacker is now in her berth at the new Kettering marina and I get to spend several nights a week aboard, usually tackling the endless list of repairs and improvements but mostly just enjoying the ambience of life on the water. I sail in Wednesday night races and occasionally get to enjoy some of the many quiet anchorages in the D'Entrecasteax Channel. To expand my onboard workshop I bought a large shed, the dream of every Aussie man. The fact that it is sited on 5 acres of beautiful bushland has thrown a spanner in the cruising works with me spending many hours just enjoying the peace and quiet, gazing at the native landscape and getting life into perspective. All this is just 3 minutes from illywhacker's berth! But the best part is that I am sharing all this with a dear friend, Alison who also once lived on Pittwater in Sydney and has moved to Hobart. For 3 months this year we enjoyed the idyllic experience of cruising the French canals in a 109 year-old Dutch barge loaned to us by friends Penny and David. As a fitting conclusion to the year I was privileged to share my 70th birthday at a great party with friends from across my lifespan. An event like that does give one cause to reflect and there is no doubt I have been most fortunate, through both the adventures I've had and the friends I've met. May all your dreams come true in 2011.7 November 2010 Kettering, Tasmania Back aboard illywhacker in Kettering after a fascinating 3 months in France aboard the totally different craft, "Anja". It is certainly a great way to see Europe, gliding along smooth canal waters, stopping wherever one pleases for sightseeing, eating and drinking at a very leisurely pace. Could be habit-forming! Life in Tasmania is equally good. Sailing, boat jobs, bushwalking and setting up my new shed all in the company of good friends occupy my days here. Next month I'll drive to Sydney to collect and bring back my diminishingly-important junk - at least it will all be in the one place. While in Sydney I will enjoy my 70th with friends and family - where did all those years go? It was the 2nd anniversary of Lyndall's passing on the 4th. She's still with me these days in a mellowed, accepting way.20 July, Montbard, Burgundy Canal The Burgundy Canal adventure began from Migennes and will end at Venary-Les Laumes near the site of the famous battle fought by the Gauls against Julius Caesar in 52 BC. The excavated Roman ruins there are a landmark in history and also mark the beginning of the staircase locks leading to the Pouilly tunnel, a no-go area for Anja. So after visiting the area we will return to Migennes and make our way across to the Loire area.Canal barging is certainly a pleasant way to see the countryside. We’ve seen little traffic so far and quite a few have been marked with a “G’day mate” as other Aussies or Kiwis slowly motor past us in the narrow canals. The Dutch monster leaving the lock in the photo took off at speed and tried to suck us into it’s hull side. The hire boat behind us wasn’t tied up as we were and had a rough time. The canals are just 2m deep and a barge that size pushes the water in front, dropping the level substantially behind hence causing first a forward force then a vaccuum to the concern of other traffic like us.Our days are spent doing perhaps 10 or 20 km and up to 10 locks before stopping around 6. We then have 3.5 hours of daylight to ride to the nearest village, prepare the BBQ and have a few local wines. First thing in the morning, around 0830! we cycle to the nearest Boulangerie for our fresh baguettes and croissants for the day - Oh it’s tough! All Aboard ANJA on the Nivernais Canal Alison and the barge owners Dave and Penny aboard ANJA waiting for a lock to open. Well, actually it's me waiting for the water to fill the lock before I wind the handle! |
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